Tamiya 87089 Airbrush Cleaner 250ml, 87089

Product Information

Pro tip: If you are planning to buy the original Tamiya Extra Thin, you may be able to save some money. As mentioned above, the cement is a simple mixture of butyl acetate and acetone. Curiously, Tamiya also has a product called Tamiya Airbrush Cleaner. And the airbrush cleaner is the exact same mixture of butyl acetate and acetone. Funnily enough, the 250 ml bottle of airbrush cleaner is cheaper than the 40 ml bottle of cement. Go figure. Of course, with the cleaner, you are not getting the fine brush in the lid of the bottle. A good way to save some money might be to buy one bottle of the Tamiya Extra Thin cement and then use the cleaner as a refill. I just need a dedicated spray room. Mmm flat balcony na Pauline needs it for her plants. Tut what to do what to do Remove the needle to clean. Use the other end of cotton swab to clean out the airbrush cap on the front end.

Acetone for both Acrylics and Enamels and it works hundreds... the Acetone cleans it up shiny shiny. Only one very big problem, the booth although its big it only just takes Darings hull, so KGV etc will not fit, aaarrrgghh I use an Ultrasonic cleaner for my airbrushes(I have two Apex, and an H and S Evolution I add a little windscreen wash fluid, never had any problems. This Iwata Medea Airbrush Cleaner works well but like many name brand products, it’s absurdly expensive.Had no problems thinning and using Tamiya, forgot about the smell! Went on well and cleaned the airbrush in the same way after normal lacquers, no problems. Many thanks to you all for yet again helping with hard earned advice!! The one area where I do go bulk is using car screenwash to clean acrylics out of my airbrush. Saves a lot compared to Tamiya X-20A, which I limit to its primary use to thin their paints… If you leave the glued parts alone long enough before handling them again, the bond is very strong and it is in fact almost impossible to cleanly separate them again. This is due to the fact that the cement essentially melts the plastic and the parts fuse together once the chemicals evaporate. Always good to see this posted again. I have been using the airbrush cleaner as liquid cement for several years now and actually just refill the same old green top bottle with an eyedropper every so often from the airbrush cleaner bottle.

Posted by Rob Henriquez at 6:00 AM Tagged with: airbrush, airbrush cleaner, Hobby, Iwata, medea, Miniatures, Model Kits, Models, painting, Tools With all this talk of cheaper glue, I gotta wonder - just how much building does everyone do? I get through maybe a bottle a year, and it’s just not worth the savings to go for cheaper bulk options for me! But maybe there are folks churning through it faster than me? The Iwata Medea airbrush cleaning station is a great for controlling and containing your waste from airbrush cleanerBeen using this for a while, works very well. Only thing i find a problem is getting the last of the spray out of the can. You know its in there but tried, shaking and more shaking even soaking can in hot water but usually end up throwing can out! Anybody else have this issue?? Optionally, once the cement is in the joint, you can press the halves more firmly. This will cause some of the melted plastic to run out of the joint line basically filling the resulting seam line. If done properly, there’s no need for putty. I’ve seen people use lots of different stuff including Windex and Simple Green, for cleaning airbrushes.. My one caution is that if you use a generic or household cleaning product, make sure you’re using one that does not have ammonia as a component. Ammonia is a little bit reactive with some metals and alloys and can cause corrosion or tarnishing. I have been gluing all my models the last two years with the airbrush cleaner. So much so I recently refilled my old Tamiya green bottle with cleaner. Found there was a blob of paint very visible on the needle part way through spraying, 2 parts paint 1 part X20 thinners 20 psi.

even the paint reservoir and a cotton bud took some effort, doesnt look like it did when it was brand new just prior to this test. In any case, you should definitely keep the cement out of reach of children. Also, if you know that you are sensitive to the chemicals the cement is made of, you should think about using latex gloves because the capillary action often causes the cement to seep from the plastic parts onto your fingers. Does Tamiya Extra Thin Cement Create a Strong Bond?

The extra thin cement is easy to use once you get the hang of it. With traditional liquid cement, you would apply the cement to a part and then you would attach it where it belongs. With extra thin cement, the steps are a bit different. I was wondering to see if I could buy some for myself, because then I get the handy bottle with its brush, and the cheaper “cement” from the airbrush cleaner. I’ll be moving for Uni soon, so I will be leaving my leaving my almost empty bottle of extra thin at home, since I can get cement when I get there. Just add i am using Vallejo Cleaner. However the best I have found as paint just disappears as you spray it on.

After a friend gave me some advice, I've now started using Acetone for both Acrylics and Enamels and it works hundreds... disassemble cap etc, place into jar of x20, remove and still paint all over it, now I hate to think whats inside the inner nozzle, scrubbing away with cotton bud to try and remove paint, trying to get into corners of front of cap, This automotive windshield washer fluid makes an outstanding airbrush cleaner and as you can see it’s dirt cheap Even though the above process sounds a bit long winded, it actually only takes a couple of minutes each time and becomes sop much part of the proceedings, that you hardly notice it. Quite a range there.... I was also told to use Nail paint remover, so another vote for Acetone. Acetone seems a good start point, "shiny shiny" suits me....Also told to use car windscreen cleaner.I have had no problem whatsoever using Tamiya acrylics through my H & B Evolution. I use both Tamiya and Xtracrylic thinners all the time - mostly Xtracrylic thinner - and that works well for me in making the Tamiya flow well through the brush. Vallejo Airbrush Cleaner works very well with the acrylic Vallejo Game Color which are a pain to airbrush. Should work with Tamiya as well. Alcohol is also a very good cleaner for all things acrylic. I do not recommend using cotton buds with airbrushes, though it seems to be common practice. I highly recommend using old brushes instead. Yes, both extra-thin cement versions by Tamiya are toxic and extremely flammable liquids. Make sure you have enough ventilation in the room where you are planning to build models as the cement can easily cause headaches for some people. A good-quality respirator is a good investment for model builders. And that’s especially true when you also use an airbrush to paint your models.